Bouncy, noisy chain babydero

[photon]

I own a 2010 honda varadero with 2700 miles on the clock. After cleaning the chain on my paddock stand I noticed the chain jumping.  Is this normal.

Video uploaded:https://youtu.be/8d8xjxp-sv4

[aboynamedsue]

It needs to be adjusted by the sounds of that, if that fails then it's done. Why are you cleaning your chain and with what?

[Doormouse]

If the chain is bouncing as you rotate the wheel it might be that some of the links are sticking. Only way I know of to resolve this is to remove it and test them individually trying to lubricate and free any sticking ones. If you can't loosen them up you may need a new one. In that case you'll have to renew both sprockets as well.
Just adjusted mine again and the slack should be 2.5cm - 3.5cm.
Hope this helps.

[S Barker]

Do you mean that the chain was bouncing when thh engine was running,the bike was in gear on the paddock stand and the back wheel was spinning ?

[Taught2BeCautious]

^^ Guess who didn't bother watching the video ^^

You have a clasic case of 'Tight Links', so as the chain rolls off the rear sprocket, the links are kinking instead of straightening themselves out.

This is farily common of standard chains where there is a larger contact area between metal parts of adjacent links - less so with 'O' and 'X' ring chains.

You might be able to free them off by using penetrating oil, or a light machine oil like '3 in 1' before using a proper chain grease, but if you are coming close to the end of the adjustment range, think about buying a new chain.

[S Barker]

^^ Guess who didn't bother watching the video ^^

You have a clasic case of 'Tight Links', so as the chain rolls off the rear sprocket, the links are kinking instead of straightening themselves out.

This is farily common of standard chains where there is a larger contact area between metal parts of adjacent links - less so with 'O' and 'X' ring chains.

You might be able to free them off by using penetrating oil, or a light machine oil like '3 in 1' before using a proper chain grease, but if you are coming close to the end of the adjustment range, think about buying a new chain.

My comment was intended for the other responders.

It may be that there are some tight links but when running like this (under no load) even a brand new chain will jump, especially on a v-twin.

It does look as if the chain is dry & dirty. Regular application of chain oil should resolve this.

[photon]

Thanks all for your answers.  I'll buy some penetrating oil as suggested by Taught2BeCautious and see if it improves.   It's a low mileage bike so the chain shouldn't need replacing yet. 

[S Barker]

Thanks all for your answers.  I'll buy some penetrating oil as suggested by Taught2BeCautious and see if it improves.   It's a low mileage bike so the chain shouldn't need replacing yet.

I would advise against using penetrating oil on a working chain. It may well wash out any existing oil that is still on/in the chain and leave it under lubricated.

Regular applications of chain oil are the best option.

[alan4298]

Regular cleaning of crap and small, regular application of chain lube real necessary as well as correct chain adjustment.

[BriArmy]

I would remove the chain, work each link manually to find the dodgy link or links. Use a good penetrating fluid ( Plus-Gas etc ) on any identified stiff links, working them in by hand. Then when the link is free, do the same work on the link with your chain drive oil, until you are confident you have washed it through thoroughly.
Lubricate the chain regularly.

[Mihai]

I had the same problem and after a few failed tries of adjusting the chain I ended up by replacing it.

[Taught2BeCautious]

If you still have the original chain, you will need to split it to remove it as there is no master link - so make sure you have a new link and the corect tools on hand if you do this.

Penetrating oil works well because it evaporates or flicks off easily after freeing-up the tight links, and you just lube the chain and maintain it as normal.