Serious electric problems with my VARA

[dang1]

Been having alot of problems with my vara, bought a new battery and a new reg/rectifier but still wont charge the battery and today all electrics failed and died.

to start with it would bump start but now wont even do that, really stuck on what it could be?

ignition works and if I charge the battery it holds for about a day before going dead again which is what made me think that it must be the reg/rectifier, but after changing that the battery still wont charge???

hope some one out there has some clues...

cheers,

dan

[Wack]

Hello dang1,

I've also had all sorts of electrical problems with my V reg Vara. Mainly rectifiers frazzling. Had five rectifiers and three batteries to date. The symptoms / consequences that I've experienced with this problem are:

1.     Main fuse blows, which, if you just keep on changing it, eventually boils your battery.
2.     Sometimes the fuse doesn't actually quite blow, it just interupts supply intermittently causing irregular running, speedo and tacho needles going mad -        stuff like that (it does blow eventually).
3.     Multimeter tests of alternator show it to be within specified tolerances, but rectifier still frazzles.
4.     Get to bike after a break and it's as dead a a dodo, presumably because rectifier has earthed out causing total loss of battery charge.
5.     The red/pink connector under the seat that houses the main (20A) fuse starts to melt.

I've been having these problems on and off now for 4 years, got through the last two rectifiers since Christmas. I've resorted to buying any Honda rectifier that has the correct plug fitting (approx ?15 on ebay, CBR125 seem to work !!), after paying a fortune for the first two.

I've now finally decided to replace the alternator, and probably the rectifier and battery as well.

Will let you know the outcome. Good luck with yours.

Wack

[jp]

Been having alot of problems with my vara, bought a new battery and a new reg/rectifier but still wont charge the battery and today all electrics failed and died.

to start with it would bump start but now wont even do that, really stuck on what it could be? ignition works and if I charge the battery it holds for about a day before going dead again which is what made me think that it must be the reg/rectifier, but after changing that the battery still wont charge???
hope some one out there has some clues...

have a look at the wiki page on batteries and charging, I know its for the big vara but the charging circuit is probably the same. While you're there see if there's anything that you think might be added.

[Deaks]

Hey guys

I've been having similar problems, mine is the alternator. The alternator is charging but not at the rate it should and then decides not to charge at all. The alternator is behind the left crank case cover (it's more the charging coil rather than a proper alternator). However it could be the diode unit which is also behind the crank case and a separate unit. Both are hard to get hold of and from Honda is very expensive.

If you do attempt repairs, make sure you've got the tools for the job, the crank case bolts will be tight! And you'll need a new gasket for the crank case, ?5 for a pre-formed one or about the same price for whats called 'Instant Gasket'.

Hope that helps guys.

[Wack]

A very belated update on the electrical problems.

Changed the alternator (cost about ?90), changed yet another regulator/rectifier.

8 months and a good few miles later, all seems to be OK - no more blowing of main fuse etc. etc.

Success ! !

[Harko]

Wack, 

Just wondering...

Were there any visible signs that the alternator had failed? 
Did you examine/check or measure (with Multimeter) the old alternator for signs of damage or other faults/problems.

If there were... maybe you would like to elaborate as it just might save someone else going through the pain/expense/frustration.

Regards,

Harko.

[Wack]

Hello folks, sorry for the somewhat belated response to Harko.

Before replacing the alternator, I checked the resistance across each of the the three coils as per the Haynes manual (with an inexpensive multimeter). It showed that it was high (0.6/0.7 ohms as opposed to 0.3 - 0.5 ohms stated in the manual). I'm have been told, however, that unless you have a pretty good multimeter, resistance readings of this magnitude aren't particularly reliable. I checked this again after installing the new alternator, and the reading was within the stated limits, but still on the high side (0.5 ohm).

There were no visble signs of the alternator being faulty.

Not sure if this helps much ! !

[jaggerothwho]

just solved my charging problem on my  xl1000 sd01. bought it cheap with the problem allready there and a misfire.
been chasing this one down for 2 months now and got it nailed. the charging system showing 18 volts on the multimeter
and cooking the battery.

replaced the alternator with a used working one out of a vtr firestorm. went for a used working mosfet rectifier regulator off a cbr1000r, and
made it fit into the space of the crap original rectifier (that gets so hot)  by drilling a couple of new holes and popped 2 m6 rivnuts into the frame,
it fits a treat. rewired the new regulator with six way automotive connector to carry the 3 yellow alternator phases, and the DC positive and Negative out to the battery.

have noticed with hondas there main wiring loom earth return never goes back to the battery, for some stupid reason instead relying on the frame earth, with the main earth wire on the battery going to an earth point on the engine. if the earth lead on the engine corrodes and goes high resistance, then the main wiring earth return goes high resistance as it does not go directly back to the battery itself. this then causes all sorts of electrical problems mainly a fried regulator.

the classic fault you see on the africa twins, with there wiring loom earth return behing bolted just under the petrol tank miles away form the battery negative terminal and a fried regulator with melted alternator connector that cannot carry the current.

this can be solved by making up a secondary earth bond lead and bolted on top of the main wiring loom earth return that bolts to the regulator on the varadero. all the earths on the main wiring loom now go back to a proper negative on the battery.

i also ran two earth bonding straps for both the ignition coils one at the front and rear left side to go back to the battery negative.

moment of truth fired the bike up and checked the alternator first all 3 phases showing approx 85 volt ac @5rpm great. turn off the bike

plugged it into the new regulator and started her up checked the DC ouptut and now showing a steady 14.45 volts, ran the bike up for 5 mins @2000 rpm and the new regulator hardly gets hot.

the bike now runs great and i dont have this charging issue anymore.

as to the missfire, i think it may be related to this electrical problem, but i took the reed valve assemblys apart and cleaned them. one was stuck, also noticed moisture and water in the top of the cam cover where the reeds fit. all cleaned dried and cleaned out and reassembled.

replaced the main air filter and also the 2 sub air filters which most dont bother to replace.

popped in 2 iridium spark plugs, and use good quality fuel.
bike now runs great

get a good quality MOSFET rectifier for the varadero i paid ?32 for a used one, or go for the generic

SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH020AA-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-NEW-GENUINE-SHINDENGEN/380704480069?hash=item58a3c15b45:g:iW8AAMXQMmJROKgr&frcectupt=true

hope this post is helpfull to anyone who has has similar problems to me.

[HEDLEY326]

Hi mate.
I've been having these issues too.
What gauge wire did you use?
Also, did you run all wires separate to the negative terminal or did you do like a three in to one type solution? Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Chris.