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v2 125 - getting her through the mot

Started by EMC, 12/07/18 - 16:28:12

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EMC

Hi

Bike had a numax ytz7s battery in it, it's not very well so this forum suggests a motobatt replacement. Reading up on this brand of battery lead me to http://(three times double-U).motobattbatteries.com/motobatt-mbtz7s.html
which says the MotoBatt MBTZ7S is the replacement for the ytz7s.

Regarding this, am I correct?

Next bit is not so easy, replacement tyres, currently I have no intention for any off road riding, the info under the seat says

tyres___________front___________rear
Bridgestone___Trail wing 53G_____Trail wing 54
Pirelli_________MT90ST___________MT90ST

Both these types of tyres appear to be 'nobblys' which in turn suggests to me off-road tendancies.

I would like the most road appropriate tyres I can get, I intend to use the bike to commute to work and for a bit of fun on the side.

Whats my best option here please?

The most recent MOT test says there are four advisories, both the tyres as mentioned above and then the forks are pitted and, also that there is slight drag to rear brake when spun by hand.

I also need to know how to drain the fuel out of the bike/tank because the fuel sat in it is a little old.

Please forgive the sizeable opening gambit, any and all advise and constructive criticism is greatly appreciated, cheers.

Taught2BeCautious

Hi,

Try searching on the size for tyres - 100/90 x 18 for the Rear, and 130/80 x 17 for the Front.
I settled on Metzelers to suit my needs, but you might also like Avon Roadriders, Continental ContiGo's, or Pirelli Scorpions.  It's hard to say what is best for you, but there are quite a few discussions on here that may help you decide.  Some people even go for 2 sets of tyres - Summer and Winter.

How bad are the forks now?  To be honest, I would look at the forks first, before spending on tyres.  If the pitting can be polished-out without taking them apart, all well and good, but if they need professional refurbishment or replacement, I would do that first.

As for draining the fuel - it is probably best if the tank is less than 1/4 full, to just top it up with fresh fuel.  If it is badly contaminated and you do need to drain it though, be aware that it is very dangerous if you do not observe the correct safety procedures - so get professional help with this.

EMC

Plumped for the Pirelli Scorpion Trail 2 Tyres.
Bought & fit to the rims & balanced (I removed the wheels) for ?220. Seems ok.

Having a problem getting the rear wheel back on because of how tight the back brake is on the disk, apologies for the epic stupidity but what am I missing? (besides a functioning brain)

This is a Vara 125 V2 (an 03 plate) only got 11k on it, I strongly suspect the tyres that have just been removed were the originals from the date of first purchase, which leads me to believe the brakes, lines, calipers and reservoirs have never been touched.

Whilst I have the wheels off is it worth me giving the brakes the once over - and can someone point me in the right direction (and thats not to the nearest garage with the greatest of respect please).

Oh, and if any other new to motorbike maintenance individual is reading, the front and back wheels have spacers that you might want to get a hold of before handing the wheels over to the tyre fitters.

black rider

hear is what I do myself I pump the piston/ pistons  out a bit then I squirt some brake cleaner or kerosene would do either that's home heating oil . I use a small child size tooth brush to clean off any gunk built up on the pistons I also pull out the anti rattle springs from behind the pads after taking the pads out  first of course and wash the lot up well then I use copper grease to keep things running smooth . some times the pistons need to come out to clean them properly thought  I use a g clamp to push back the pistons then I refit the pads pump up the brake  then I remove the calliper again and I apply copper grease to the exposed portion of the pistons  I use a cotton bud I also clean the face of the pads  and the disc with brake cleaner . there is some great videos on the subject on you tube dellboys garage has some good videos I know some people don't like him but he has helped a lot of people get a bit of a better understanding of their bikes you cant please all the people all the time and all that .

a few things that are handy for working on bikes are copper grease a torque wrench a 1/4 " drive socket set I have a draper expert set for years its done a lot of work  the ratchet broke but I have a better one instead now more professional kind of a one  a rubber hammer  a lead light  a 3/4 " drive set of allen head sockets is nice too to go with a torque wrench I only have a 6mm one myself  that's the most common a set of feeler gauges is nice too if you want to venture into valve clearance inspection an impact driver is good too and some clear plastic hose that fits the brake bleed nipples so you can bleed up brakes if you find corroded pistons and you want to change the pistons and seals don't ever buy economy pistons they last no length there is tons more stuff but that's just a few to get started oh and a multi meter o your research  and buy a good one my draper has limited  capability and a Haynes manual is a great investment too .  should be some good reading on the subject hear use the search bar  ;)

RobertGates

I have the Michelin pilot activ. I have found them to be very good in all weather conditions., and haven't had any problems with these having compleated a few thousand on my current sent with plenty of tyre to go. many more miles to go on these.