Vara XL1000 engine/frame bolts removal

[MadMax]

Hello!

My Vara frame is preparing for powder coat. I disassembled all except those 2 long screws, who are holding engine to frame.... I sprayed 2 days in a row with ProLong rust penetrator, no result. Now im trying Wurth 5000 penetrator. But still no results. Tryed to knock out that bolt, hitting it from hex nut side, no results. In the same time im afraid to test my luck, im afraid that i can crack the engine... Can anyone please give me advice, hot to take them out. Thats the only issue i have for now whats stopping me

[S Barker]

Thats the Fiche Dwg from a Carby Vara

The engine mounting bolts on the Carby are stressed and add to the rigidity of the frame. It's not so much of an issue when removing them but when they are reinstalled they need to be torqued correctly.

If you hit them from the nut side on the end of the bolts they will swell and you'll never get them out. Always put a nut on the end of the bolt and make sure you hit that.

Try using a drift bar the same OD as the hex heads and give the bolts a few good whacks on the hex head end. Then try to rotate the bolts.

If that doesn't work your next bet is to heat them up and then try.

Make sure there is no fuel or WD40 lying around before applying heat to the bolts.

[MadMax]

Of course i left nut on thread. I now the consequences if no nut is installed and banging begins

I bought Wurth HEX tead. It had really good and toght fit. I tried to move bolt. Ony bolts HEX head moves, rest of bolt is still. Im i fraid hat i will slip the bolts HEX dead, because with each try to move it, is slips more and more. In the end i wll twist it off.
As well i heated up those mounts with propane torch and head gun but no results..
I even invited 2 friends of mine, to garade. One was heating up mounts with torch. Other one was hitting bolts end with hammer. And i was trying to turn HEX. No results
Ithink its stuck in left side of frame + engine. See picture

[S Barker]

Perhaps it's time for drastic measures ! Do you have access to a welder ?

If so you could weld a bar to the centre of the bolt and use that to free it and get it to rotate.

Once the bolt was free you would then either have to cut off the bar and grind the bolt flush or cut the bolt in 2 places to remove the centre section.

you can then drive out the remains on the bolt

[MadMax]

Yes, i have welder. I was thinking the same. To weld a steel bar/rod and use it as lever. That would be later the smallest struggle to grind off excess material.
But welding is last option.

My friend suggested, that i could split that rusty bar. And drill out those bolts from both sides. Make a center. Start with 3mm drill and go up and up. Leaving enough material to punch out remains of the bolts. Thoughts about hat?

[S Barker]

I think I would try welding on a bar first.

Keeping a drill straight and not damaging the engine would be difficult.

[MadMax]

The saga continues and it's totally f****ing fu**ed mate, Big Time!
The council has made decision. The screws will cut off with a renovator. I will leave the ends to make it easier to extract the screw later, plus it will be a reserve for other attempts just in case. There are no other options. There will be no problem with the front screw (first picture).

But the back screws will require surgical precision.
The plan is to cut between the engine and the frame. (see second picture) As a result, I will lose 1mm on each side (0.5 from the engine mount and 0.5 from the frame extension plane). I will compensate for this difference with stainless steel washers. Because, as we know, there are no other options.
And when the engine is ejected and on the table, I will be able to do screw extraction, engine cleaning, etc. And give the frame to do some welding job and powder coat.

Today I got tired of thinking and trying to unscrew those screws. It's useless I used time more efficiently. I cleaned the sprocket location. Still have to work on it
Before I start cutting the screws, the motorcycle must be properly and securely fastened (just like in the Harko project). Two tripods and a bar through the frame. Proper engine support must be prepared as well. I don't want to just knock the engine to the ground with a big blow. Or knock on my feet and get serious injuries. Oh yes, I forgot! I will not do the cutting alone, I will invite a old knwon combatant. If something goes wrong, who will help? Also need to prepare an angry juice for the grand finale, known as - moonshine. That's all for now. To be continued. Stay safe!

[S Barker]

Do you think it is 100% necessary to cut the frame ?

If (as I suspect ) the bolts are seized in the frame but could be moved a bit in the engine it should be possible to cut the bolts in the middle and then use something to push the sides of the frame apart a few mm.

You would then be able to get a blade between the frame and the engine to cut the bolts at both sides.

[MadMax]

Do you think it is 100% necessary to cut the frame ?

If (as I suspect ) the bolts are seized in the frame

!!!Situation with frot engine bolt!!!
Today I managed to grab this adjusting screw (part No. 11 in the diagram) with a Knipex between the frame and the engine. It's moving !!!This means that a long screw is stuck in both engine mounts, in aluminuim... Okay! I will not have to damage the adjusting bolt. Its already a little bit damaged, but thats fine. If i will extract it out in one piece. There will not be a problem to make a new one on lathe. Because it is not possible to order that part no.11. Neither the official dealer or Ebay offers anything. I even called to Greece, Russias, Lithuanias, Polands, Czech, Denmarks, Norways, Swedens shops - part is not awailable. Tonight I called to one of many Japans shops - pats ir not available! Big time!
Another way is to, like you said. Weld a bar on that long bolt, between both engine mounts. Theorethicaly it will warm up that bar quite a lot nad hopefully will free up that god damn bolt.

!!Regarding rear engine bolt!!!
Im still spraying it with penetrants ect. Lets see results tomorrow.

[MadMax]

Say hello to my little friend!!!
Managed to get out that front engine bolt. Indeed, drilling was required. No options!





But rear bolt was good boy. Came out with almost no problems. A lots of oil and penetrant. And job was done.

Now im waiting fr new ones. Aprrox delivery time 2-3 weeks
In mean time, frame is given to powfer coat. Will clean u engine from all gunk, oils, mud n stuff.

Also did electrical job on instrument cluster. Replaced connections and screw.
Before :




After: