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S Barker

2024-01-06, 15:48:05
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Bleeding the front brakes, any input please

Started by zorst, 19/03/12 - 11:53:20

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The Prodded Dog

If it is defeating you get a Honda dealer to change the fluid and bleed the system. Shouldn't be a great deal of money especially if you have it done during a routine service. There are miles of pipes on the linked system and it can drive you daft if you don't have a pressurised brake bleeding kit.

The Prodded Dog
I can still do all the things I could when I was 21, but now it is with less teeth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vtp4adNTP0Y

big_papa_pump

Hi Zorst,

I've recently changed all my bpipes to braided hoses and finally discovered I don't have very good patience. You need to keep going but one thing I would add is that when you are bleeding the back nipples you have to pump the front left caliper by hand. Don't ask why but my local Honda mechanic told me to do so and that then gave me a stronger brake on the front brake lever.

p.s you just got to keep doing the whole 6 nipples and pumping the actual caliper on front left isn't easy but hope this helps.

                                                 Papa pump
Winners don't quit and quitters don't Win

zorst

Thanks for keeping on it lads.

I've spoken to my local Honda (25miles away) and asked about master servo kits just to get the conversation going and to lead them onto bleedin brakes.

A very helpful gent said they are difficult to do and that they've had problems themselves.

Also everything i've done is right so far.

He just went on to say 'persivere'

On the subject of keep on with the six nipples, i'll keep on with it Papa but the man agreed with me that the front brake is its own. I'm not disagreeing with you but if it is connected it's in the caliper.

I'm typing this from work, so roll on hometime so i can crack on with it again.

S Barker

Mightyvac

Plate on top of the reservior with a rubber seal and a nipple for the pump.

It's how they fill/bleed most new cars.
I wonder what happen if I click on this - Ooops

zorst

An Update.

Well at last i've got some brakes and mighty fine they are too.

The difference was while the bike is on the spot and thinking that the lever has got some travel, to actually riding the bike and trying it.

On the spot the lever will go nearlly all the way to the bar with some pressure, when trying it you think it's er.... yeah alright but has more travel than mi TDM and mi mates bandit but when riding the bike and using the lever the brakes are instant with 10mm on the lever and then progressive so sure solid stopping.

One of the combinations i think that went towards a good bleed was while i was pumping on the lever mi mate was opening the bleed nipple, not a lot, just that fraction so you know its just come off its locked point, enough to bleed under force, no air returning through the bleed nipple thread, non of the open close open close etc etc

New pads are bedded in, happy days. :)

Thanks very much to lads who have followed the thread and for the input of course, i'm off to start a fresh one.

black rider

#20
rather than start a new thread on this I used the search feature  and found this very useful thread I think its well worth a bump   . this is my first bike with linked brakes  and I wanted to be sure of what I was doing . my front brakes make a groaning noise not a groaning with pleasure more of an acute pain type of groan  .  I have  a new  set of rear Nissan pads waiting to fit and I intend on buying some genuine Honda pads from David Silver whitch will be Honda .

a bit more expensive  than really shitty pads but well worth it . discs cost a lot more . some Muppet  who had the bike before me or most lightly   a   smartass mechanic fitted goldfren pads they are total crap  they have chunks missing out of them possibly from having screw drivers wedged in to push back the pads . so I will try to clean up the pistons in place first  with brake cleaner and a tooth brush and copper grease them to see if that works  . if not then a good strip down and clean hopefully the pistons are all right as they are pretty costly on top of the  costly pads .  :-\     afterthought  . a handy tip I take photos of bits of info that will help get the job done . like in this thread the sequence to bleed the brakes I am well used to servicing my brakes but this linked brakes business is all new to me .

black rider

progress report .  callipers  cleaned up and copper greased the pistons had some carbon build up . I pumped the pistons out and used chrome polish to clean them up and a handy size g clamp I found on the ground in a load of scrap iron it was  locked up with rust a wire brush wd40 and a little gentle persuasion got it running free again . its much nicer than my big one . that saved me bleeding it all up . when I buy new pads  soon I will change the fluid . its a good practice to go over a bike when you get it a good lube up of bearings  wheel and shock linkage and all clean and lube the callipers  too . I would have changed the oil and washed it but my back aches from sat so long on my bike it stool on casters . its a great bit of kit puts you at just the right height . a beer crate would work fine too and be about the same height . 

black rider

centre piston on back calliper very stiff wont budge with front leaver have to push rear leaver to move it .  maybe bike should have been turned on . it still squeals new seals ordered from wemoto . that should do the trick . I will buy new pads while it sleeps over winter and refurbish the brakes in the spring fresh fluid the lot . its going to be  gleaming and tuned  as best as I can for next season . I hope to have it back singing and dancing by the weekend and get another couple of nice rides before the grim gritters  pull out their wagons of doom .

S Barker

Quote from: black rider on  18/10/16 - 13:37:17
centre piston on back calliper very stiff wont budge with front leaver have to push rear leaver to move it .

Thats because the front brake lever has nothing to do with the centre piston on the rear caliper ! It's only driven by the foot pedal (which also operates the centre piston on both front calipers).

The outside two pistons on the rear caliper are driven by the actuator on the front left caliper which will only work when the bike is moving.

Plenty of info on this forum on linked brakes if you can be bothered to look.
I wonder what happen if I click on this - Ooops

black rider

thanks for the handy tip  . I will just use the search feature in the future and have a read and not be bothering ye all with my posts .