Honda Adventure Bikes Wiki

The pump is prone to failure after around 30,000km therefore this page deals with the symptoms of that failure, cures, preventative measures, and an explanation of the purpose and operation of the pump

There are two taps, one either side of the tank. The LH one is easy to operate, the RH one is reversed and the handle is difficult to reach. Both taps need to be ON in normal use. Both taps need to be OFF when disconnecting the pump. Fuel Tap positions (LH) each tap has 3 positions, two ON and one OFF

Simply the engine either misfires or stops altogether This is complicated however by the following:

• It could be an ignition fault and nothing to do with the fuel supply
• It could be a fault in the electrics supplying the pump
• The fault is initially intermittent but gets worse
• A high level of fuel in the tank makes the pump failure less noticeable
• Restarting after cutting out often works and the symptoms disappear, only to come back later.

However, as the pump is known to fail and the other items less so it's worthwhile to check the pump first.

Note 1: the pump only operates when (a) the engine is firing AND (b) when the carburettors are demanding more fuel (see 'pump operation'). This makes life a little difficult if the engine wont run.

Note 2: To get at the pump the bellyan must be removed.

• Bypass the pump as detailed in 'Pump not working: what to do.' and start the engine
• Listen: the pump makes a clicking noise when its pumping, get close, its difficult to hear over the engine.
• Touch the pump, it is possible to feel the pump working.
• Look: remove the end cover of the pump and the contact mechanism can be seen to be working or not. If it is the pump may still not be working due to an internal failure, e.g. diaphragm broken, but it's unlikely, and maybe unknown on the vara.
• If the pump isn't working disconnect the 2way connector from the pump situated under the LH tank side and apply +12V to the blue/black pump lead and negative to the green pump lead. If the pump now works the pump is OK and the fault is elsewhere.

if the pump appears to be working, ie contacts moving, but you still doubt that it is pumping then connect the inlet hose back on the pump, direct the outlet to a suitable container and start the engine, which should run for a time on the fuel in the carburettors. You should now have a jar full of petrol else the pump is broken.

• Attempt to mend the pump in situ. The probable cause of the pump not working is burnt contacts.

tap the pump whilst trying to start the engine. This sometimes jogs the contacts into working again, This may get you home.

• Remove the end cover of the pump and clean the contacts with a nail file or emery board, which you're sure to have. This will probably get you home.
• Bypass the pump: Turn off BOTH fuel taps, remove the inlet and outlet hoses and connect them together with a 'U' shaped piece of 10mm metal tube and hose clips that you should be carrying, otherwise use a piece of the smaller diameter pump rubber drain tube, you wont need this tube when you've replaced the pump anyway. Turn BOTH fuel taps on, fill the tank with petrol and the bike should run, as long as the tank is kept above half full.
• Replace the contact set. One is available from Wemoto (external link)
• Replace the pump. There are various different pumps which can be used in addition to the Honda version, they are less expensive and allegedly more reliable. Pumps made by Mitsubishi, Quinton Hazell (QFP171E1), Facet (external link) and others have been used. Here is an edited version of an installation report for a HUCO 133000 pump.